Thursday night I had the pleasure of grabbing some good beef at Shula’s Steakhouse in the new Hilton Richmond Hotel.
I’ve been asked several times- “What do you think?”
My only response- “It was fine”
For the money that was spent on that meal, I feel like I should have been more excited. But in reality Shula’s is just another chain restaurant that invaded the Richmond area that happens to serve Prime Steak. I think that puts 5 total in the greater Richmond area.
- Shula’s
- Ruth’s Chris
- Morton’s
- Fleming’s
- Copper Grill
Then you can add the 2 local joints that serve (but I cannot confirm) USDA Prime or equal
- Hondos
- Buckheads
To me, USDA Prime is USDA Prime. I think it is safe to say that most of these places know what to prepare USDA Prime. I also think it is safe to say that the majority of you cannot tell the difference in the quality of steak from one USDA Prime place to another.
So what are the variables that you can judge between the different places. Well, you can have your USDA Prime beef grilled, roasted, seared, and broiled. You can add Bearnaise or horseradish or butter on top of your steak. You can serve it with creamed spinach, lyonnaise potatoes, asparagus, or the other of handful of typical side dishes. All these places have high-end wine lists and a strong selection of whiskeys. In the end, you are going to send roughly the same amount of money.
So what sets these places apart? The location, the atmosphere, the service, and the perfect combination of style and sides. It’s almost boring now when you think about it.
So why do we continue to keep adding these places? Why are Richmonders continuing to keep these places in business when we have so many creative local restaurants out there? Are there any creative Prime steakhouses out there? Is it possible to have a steakhouse that features local, grass fed steaks?
Help me here…..
We just need the Palms and Richmond will have a full deck.
Love the proposal that these national steak behemoths source local beef (say, a Brookview Farm). They would be perfect for specials.
Of course, personally, I prefer the marbled goodness of Chicago/Kansas corn-fed prime versus the leaner grass-fed Goochland variety. If I’m paying $40+, I want to indulge.
In regards to this category of steakhouses, you are correct. Not a lot of major variation (unless it’s to butter or not to butter)…they all come from the same DNA as Peter Luger’s…though more should add the beefsteak tomato as a side). I really hate that these places charge entrée prices for sides (though the sides are ultimately the tiebreaker).
…….the high end chain steak houses are really expense account places. Morton’s/Ruth Chris are what they are wherever you are. I have to say that the British bar keep at Ruth Chris’ is a true professional. But there is nothing special about the meat. The cigar smoke at Buckhead’s is a joke…..the combo of steak, single malt and cigars came to Richmond just as it was about to leave NYC.
That being said, it is nuts to go to one of these places if you know the first thing about cooking steaks. You can pick up great grassfed local beef or prime meat at Belmont, or Myers beef at Thompson’s, liberally use kosher salt and ground pepper, buy yourself a decent cab/malbec, make your own roasted potatos, asparagas, caesar salad (yes, made with anchovy and egg) and you will have a dinner for two at perhaps $70 cost (with martinis) that will otherwise cost over $200 with tip at these listed places. You can then use the 130 for several pho lunches, and dinner at let’s say Kuba Kuba or Mamma Zu. That is how we ride.
Mark, I agree with your general premise. That being said, I’ve bought prime and even waygu before and cooked it at home. It’s hard to replicate the heat and therefor the searing. I cannot replicate the melted butter quite as well either. Is it worth the extra $130 for a better sear or butter, no, but they do cook them better than I can.
Ed- I would love to see someone master the art of cooking grass fed. I am sure that they exist in places like Brooklyn (see Diner). I just think if someone could take advantage of the extra flavor provided by grass fed, then it would be able to challenge the super marbled steaks.
What about Bookbinder’s are they Prime? Are they even still in Richmond? it’s been a while for me …
With all that said, I don’t get the proliferation of what basically amount to interchangeable places. Part of it might be that there’s more a market for it than there ever was in richmond before, since the city is growing at a good clip.
As far as why they stay in business, I think the expense account angle is a good one, but i also think it’s a thing that people like eating places that are familiar, or at least have familiar names. I love trying new places and new dishes, but let’s face it, folks discussing food on this blog are more the “early adopter” types than the laggards.
I think Richmond will get to more of an artisinal cuisine city like Portland OR in a few years (there’s not a lot of distractions with sports or whatever) but I think that for the masses, it’s gotta be baby steps first. As a Jets fan, I’ll probably never step inside a Shula’s but it’s presence validates a burgeoning community of people who enjoy dining. Hopefully, they’ll graduate to more cross-cultrual/creative/artisinal places soon.
I don’t eat/order steaks, but my parents had me appreciating fillet mignon before I turned veggie in 1992 and I still like to cook my wife’s steaks for her and taste a smidge to see how I did. I agree with Marinara that a good sear is hard to do at home (except on my cast iron grill). And this “prime” distinction is a new one on me. Glad I get to steer clear of that mess. It seems like any governmental intervention causes the market to adapt and contort itself to take even more money from the consumer, making it really hard to know what to buy and where (especially with all the sameness of bourgie chains). I agree with Bassett that cross-cultrual/creative/artisinal places are where it’s at. And if sides are the deciding factor between the chains, the smaller places probably blow them outta the water with creativity and flare. By the way, Infuzion sells a 32oz steak for dinner. I forget what cut it is.
“I agree with Marinara that a good sear is hard to do at home (except on my cast iron grill).”
That’s like saying that pasta is hard to cook at home, except in a pot full of water. Cooking a good steak at home isn’t rocket science, and good instructions can be found in books or online (Alton Brown can show you how to sear a good steak). Room temp meat, salt 15-20 min before, pan must be hot as fuck, don’t move the steak until it’s time to flip. The melted butter is more about buying good butter rather than technique. The sides can be a little more work but for the most part aren’t too difficult. These high-end steakhouses are only worth it when it’s not your money. I live across the street from Ruth Chris and am amazed that their lot is packed every damn night of the week.
I have not tried Hondos – but I heard it’s just ok…
Also, correction – Shula’s serves CERTIFIED Angus Steaks. Morton’s, Shula’s and Ruth Chris are some of the best chain Steakhouses Ive been to.
I like Copper Grill inside.
Well, if only Richmond serves better food and have more variety to choose from or at least have these so called local restaurants vary up their menus.
Ive been to Tobacco or Havana or Europa or Sensi or Sticky Rice or Caliente or these other so called local places so many times in my 8 years of stay in Richmond – the menus are the same over and over again… In the long run, it becomes boring…
And it’s so hard to make a good recommendation for people who comes from foodie places like NY or CA… Argggghhhh….
just informational..
usda beef is beef that has been inspected and given a usda seal of authenticity. what is the inspection criteria? ratio of marbling and youth of beef with a curiously confusing mathematical equation of some sort.
there are eight grades; prime, choice, select, standard, commercial, utility, cutter and canner (highest to lowest, respectively – some places that will tell you there are only five grades). your cutter and canner beef are the ones you find in tv dinners, microwave burritos and other such things.
certified angus beef is entirely different. cab is a organization formed specifically for that breed of cattle. it promotes “an impression” that its beef is of higher standards. in order for this type of beef to be labeled such by the usda, it has 10 characteristics it must follow.
things to keep in mind: if you do NOT see the seal that says prime, it is not being served at the restaurant ( saying it is prime-aged is a bunch of bunk). if you do not see the seal that labels the beef c.a.b., it is not. variations often used to confuse such as “black angus, angus, etc. a little under 8% of all beef fits into this category. A LITTLE under 1% of all beef fits into a certified angus beef USDA brand prime distinction.
nice write up, sadler.
I was using the term “Prime” loosely.
From what I understand, only 2 or 3 of the places that I listed actually use USDA Prime.
Shula’s says that they use the Shula’s Cut. which is “The SHULA CUT ® is more discriminating and selective than USDA prime or choice.The SHULA CUT ® is an exclusive beef program for Angus type cattle, that has to meet eight (8) science based qualifying specifications in marbling, maturity, consistency, flavor, leanness, appearance and tenderness.”
Important to note, that all places listed here serve wet-aged beef, not dry-aged beef, which is my preference. A couple of places in town, not known for steak, serve dry-aged beef and these are the places that where I order a steak because it will be better than what I can make at home.
Steakhouses here (and in most cities)are about atmosphere, not the beef.
posted too quickly–some of the steaks at Buckheads are dry aged
The problem with many of the steak house here in Richmond is that they use high-heat, fast cooking. Instead of a true Maillard crust they end up with a carbonized crust – not tasty and very bad for you. I’ve been making steaks at home these days using a method described by Alain Ducasse – medium high heat, basting with butter and cooking for nearly 45 minutes in some cases for a medium rare. The crust, the flavour are excellent. Doubt you will find it served here in RVA due to the time involved but if you have any skill it is not that difficult. http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?/topic/119838-the-best-way-to-cook-a-thick-steak/
I’ve given up on ordering steaks out in most cases because I feel like I can do just as good if not better at home for much less. I’d rather pick up a steak from a local producer, Belmont Butchery, or a dry-aged cut from Whole Foods and do the prep myself.
That said, I give Gary at Coast props for turning out a very nice piece of beef last week. My recollection of the Bamboo steak is that it is always very good. And then of course there’s the steak frites at Can Can — and steak frites is among the happiest comfort foods out there when it’s done well.
As for the chain joints, I’d only drop the coin if it was coming out of someone else’s pocket.